ON THE 18TH [7 February] we were 2 leagues from the most easterly of
the St. Peter islands, and so stood in for the point on the mainland at
which our bearings had been stopped the day before. In this part the coast
recedes to form a broad bay that stretches to North-East by North. We
ran in for it in order to find out its depth and to see if there were
not some ports there where ships could lie securely. As the weather was
fine and the breeze fresh, we made fairly rapid progress - lead constantly
in hand when we found no more than 11 fathoms. In less than a quarter
of an hour we fell to 6, and this obliged us to bear away (and even to
go about) in order to reach the other headland forming the western entrance
to this bay. We were still roughly 2 leagues from the North-East inlet,
but it was perfectly plain that it had neither cuttings nor openings that
could lead one to believe that there was anything of interest there.
This lack of depth having obliged us to stand out a little, we sighted
a long reef at water- level over which big seas broke. It seemed to us
to be more than a league long. We were then in 15 fathoms and, being unable
to pass between it and the mainland, were forced to stand in for the eastern
end of the St. Peter islands and to pass between this and the reef, coasting
the third island (not mentioned on the chart) at a distance of 1.1 miles
at the most. The channel separating this island from the reef is a good
league across and the depth is 15 to 18 fathoms with a bottom of sand
and broken shells.
After doubling it, we saw several other islands to the West and East
which we judged must belong to the Isles of St. Francis. In the channels
between them there are several reefs at water- level over which the sea
breaks heavily, but past which one can sail fairly close without having
anything to fear, for the water is deep. We were frequently obliged to
luff for some and bear away for others. Finally, heading East of North
to stand in for the land, we doubled two islands lying very near the coast;
and when we were to the North of the first, we sighted a large bay, even
deeper than the one passed during the morning. It seemed to me that we
should find good shelter there, and 1 decided to look for an anchorage
in it, coasting the West side of the islands. This conjecture was proved
correct, for once we had them to South-East, we found the sea very calm.
We then shortened sail and, continuing North in 11 and 12 fathoms, advanced
to 6, where I anchored 1-1 leagues off shore on a bottom of grey sand
mixed with broken shells and weed. The coast at the head of the inlet
was still more than 2 leagues to East- SouthEast, but before we took the
ship in there. it was necessary to make sure if there were [sufficient
depth] for entering as well as for coming out.
As soon as our sails were furled, two boats were immediately dispatched
to go sounding all around the ship and in various directions. On their
return, I was informed that the depth of this bay was not sufficient for
even a small vessel. At about a mile from the ship there were no more
than 5 fathoms of water; half a mile further on, 4, and almost straightaway,
3 and 2. Nearer to the shore there was nothing but shallows and a continuous
succession of sand-banks partly visible at low tide.
The boat which had had orders to head North-West gave us a moment of
joy and satisfaction when it told us that it had discovered a fine port
into which four rivers flowed, and that in the one it had entered, there
were 4 fathoms of water and 3 inside *. As a matter of fact the water
in it was salty, but it would probably finish by becoming fresh as one
went further up it. This was particularly pleasant, as it compensated
for our regret at having found nothing on this coast so far that could
repay us for our efforts and be of use to navigators.
The little boat had been sent off likewise to the island opposite which
we were at anchor, and Citizen Guichenot, our gardener, had gone in it
to reconnoitre the territory and discover what it produced. The boat did
not return until during the night, having been stranded at low tide more
than 2 miles off shore.
According to the gardener's report, this island consists merely of sand,
in which various low, shrubby trees grow. He only brought back some plants
that were gone to seed, having been unable to find any in flower. Amongst
them, there is one that has absolutely the bearing of an olive-tree. Its
fruit resembles the olive in miniature, although the seed inside is very
different. A big fire was lit on this island to serve as a beacon for
the Casuarina, should she happen to enter this region.
As there was a very strong breeze all day and we had only 30 fathoms
of cable down, we paid out 20 more, and in spite of the heavy South-South-easterly
gusts, held firm on our anchor - proof that the bottom was not foul and
that the holding was good.
* Sic.
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